Bayanbulak Grassland: Sunset, Swans, and the Duku Highway

Bayanbulak (巴音布鲁克) is China's second-largest grassland, hidden in a basin at 2,500 meters inside the Tianshan Mountains. Open only from late May to early October, the Kaidu River bends across this alpine meadow in nine great curves — at sunset, each bend reflects a golden "sun." The grassland is the climax stop on the Duku Highway, one of China's most dramatic mountain roads.

Nine Suns Over a Grassland at 2,500 Meters

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Bayanbulak sits in Hejing County (和静县), Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture, Xinjiang. The core grassland covers roughly 23,835 hectares (~238 sq km), while the wider nature reserve spans about 4,600 sq km. "Bayanbulak" means "abundant springs" in Mongolian — the basin sits on rich underground water systems, feeding one of China's largest alpine meadows. In 2013, Bayanbulak was inscribed as part of the Xinjiang Tianshan UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The headline scene is the Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns (九曲十八弯). The Kaidu River (开都河) — linked in local legend to the Tongtian River of Journey to the West — flows down from Tianshan glaciers and meanders across the flat grassland in nine sweeping bends. At sunset, each bend reflects a golden disc — an effect that draws photographers from across China.

Bayanbulak is also China's only swan nature reserve, the world's highest-altitude swan breeding ground, and the homeland of the Torghut Mongols — a community with one of the most dramatic migration stories in Chinese history.

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Getting There via the Duku Highway

Bayanbulak sits deep in the Tianshan range with no airport or railway. Most visitors arrive by car along the Duku Highway (G217).

Charter Car or Self-Drive (Primary Option)

• From Urumqi: ~460 km via the Duku Highway, 7–8 hours. The road itself is a destination — desert to conifer forest to snow-capped passes to alpine meadow in a single day. Charter cars run ¥800–1,500 per day including fuel and tolls.
• From Korla: ~4–5 hours via S206/G218 northward.
• The Duku Highway is restricted to vehicles with seven seats or fewer.

Bus (Budget but Inconvenient)

From Hejing County bus station 📍 Hejing County Bus Station (Google | Amap): ~¥58, two departures daily at 8:00 and 9:00 AM (~3 hours, more buses in peak season). On arrival in Bayanbulak town, you still need a local ride to the visitor center (~10 km).

For foreign visitors — Bayanbulak (Hejing County) does not currently require a special Xinjiang travel permit. Standard tourist visas and 144/240-hour transit exemptions apply. Border areas of Xinjiang still have restrictions, and policies can change — confirm the latest requirements before departure.

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Tickets, Hours, and the Shuttle

The shuttle bus is the only way into the core scenic area — private vehicles are not permitted. The one-way trip runs about 45 km (~1 hour 20 minutes), stopping at three points. In peak season, buses depart every 30 minutes or when full. The standard last return bus is around 19:30, but in summer (July–August) it extends to 22:30–23:00 to accommodate sunset viewers.

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Three Stops Inside the Park

The shuttle stops at three points; you can hop on and off freely.

Barun Kure Temple (巴润库热庙)

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The first stop. This mobile-style Tibetan Buddhist temple is the religious center of the Torghut Mongols. In 1771, the Torghut tribe made a legendary 10,000-kilometer migration from the Volga River back to China — Bayanbulak is where they settled. The temple is small, but knowing this history changes how you see the yurts and herds dotting the grassland around it. Allow 15–20 minutes.

Swan Lake (天鹅湖)

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The second stop. Nearly 7,000 wild swans — whooper, tundra, and mute — nest here from June through September. Dawn is when they are most active — flocks lifting off, landing, and preening on the water. Wooden boardwalks allow close observation (the core nesting zone is off-limits). The shuttle pauses here for about 20 minutes; if you want more time, catch the next bus.

Nine Bends Viewing Platform (九曲十八弯观景台)

The third and final stop — the climax of the entire visit. See the next section.

Chasing the Sunset at Nine Bends

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The Nine Bends viewing platform is the reason most people come to Bayanbulak.

Why It Is Special

The Kaidu River flows off the Tianshan glaciers and hits the flat grassland at 2,500 meters, losing its gradient and beginning to meander. From the platform above, the river curves into nine great bends, like a silver serpent laid across a green carpet. As the sun drops toward the horizon, its low angle sends light skipping into each curve of water — every bend reflects a golden disc, the effect looking like nine suns strung along the river.

When to See the "Nine Suns"

The perfect alignment appears roughly twice a year: around the summer solstice (June 22 ± 2 days) and the autumn equinox (September 22 ± 2 days), when the sun sets directly on the river's central axis. Other dates from June through September still produce breathtaking sunsets — just with five to seven reflections rather than the full nine.

Timing and Logistics

Xinjiang uses Beijing time but is effectively two hours behind — summer sunsets happen around 21:30–21:50.

• Reach the visitor center by 16:00–17:00
• Shuttle to Nine Bends station: ~1 hour 20 minutes
• Electric cart from parking lot to platform: ~¥20
• Claim your position and wait

Check the day's last-shuttle time at the visitor center (typically 22:30–23:00 in summer). After the ride back, you still need to get to your accommodation in Bayanbulak town.

What to Expect After Dark

Even in July, temperatures on the viewing platform at 2,500 meters drop below 5°C after sunset. Wind makes it colder. Bring a windproof jacket, fleece, and long pants even if the afternoon felt warm. Cloudy evenings are still worth it — sunset light paints the clouds in reds and golds.

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Photography Gear and Settings

Essential gear: Tripod (long exposure for silky water), wide-angle lens (14–35 mm) for the landscape, telephoto (70–200 mm+) for river-bend light spots and distant swans, polarizing filter to cut water glare, remote shutter release.

Camera settings: f/11–16 for depth of field. Use HDR mode or bracketed exposure — the brightness gap between sky and ground at sunset is extreme. Slow shutter (0.5–2 seconds) smooths the water surface.

Phone: Use pro mode with average or spot metering on the river surface. Slightly underexpose to preserve sky detail.

Best position: The highest official platform on the viewing deck has the widest field of view. Boardwalk sides offer alternative angles — arrive early to explore.

Clothing for photos: Warm-toned clothing (orange, red, yellow) stands out against green grass and golden light.

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Before You Go

Altitude

At 2,500 meters, mild altitude effects (headache, shortness of breath, disrupted sleep) are possible for travelers coming directly from sea level. Spend the previous night at a lower elevation — Korla sits at roughly 900 meters and makes a good acclimatization stop. Stay hydrated and avoid strenuous activity on arrival day.

Temperature Swings

The most underestimated factor. Summer daytime hovers around 20°C — pleasant. After sunset, it can drop below 5°C, approaching 0°C overnight. Pack a windproof jacket, fleece, and long pants. Standing on the exposed viewing platform for two hours of sunset will chill you through without proper layers.

Mosquitoes

Mid-July mosquitoes are severe — the grassland's abundant water sources breed them in huge numbers. Bring DEET-based repellent and wear long sleeves and trousers. Mesh head nets are useful when standing still for long photography waits.

Food and Supplies

No restaurants inside the scenic area. Bring food, water, and a thermos of hot water (useful at altitude after dark). Bayanbulak town has a handful of simple restaurants — lamb is the local staple: roast whole lamb, hand-torn boiled lamb (手抓肉), and pulled noodles.

Accommodation

Bayanbulak town has basic guesthouses and small hotels. Conditions are simple (clean but spartan). In peak season (July–August), book at least a week ahead or risk no rooms. Hot water may not be reliable.

Rules

• Swan nesting core area is off-limits
• Do not chase or disturb livestock
• Mobile signal is weak inside the scenic area
• Drones are prohibited

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Part of the Duku Highway Adventure

Bayanbulak is not a standalone destination for most travelers — it is the core stop on the southern section of the Duku Highway (G217), and most visitors build it into a multi-day Duku crossing.

The Duku Highway

The 561-kilometer road runs from Dushanzi (独山子, near Karamay) to Kuqa (库车), cutting straight through the Tianshan range. In a single drive, the scenery shifts from desert to conifer forest, over snowbound mountain passes, and into alpine meadow — locals call it "four seasons in one day." Bayanbulak is the natural midpoint, where most travelers spend a night to catch the sunset.

Classic Route

Urumqi → Dushanzi (Duku starting point) → Qiaerma (乔尔玛, memorial to the road's construction) → Nalati Grassland (那拉提, the "aerial meadow" of the Ili Valley) → Bayanbulak → Kuqa or Korla

The full trip typically takes 2–3 days. Bayanbulak is the overnight stop on Day 1 or Day 2.

The road opens each year in June (exact date depends on snowmelt) and closes in October.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Beyond This Guide

The Duku Highway is not just a road — it is a compressed cross-section of everything that makes Xinjiang's landscape extraordinary. Bayanbulak is the emotional peak of that crossing, but the deserts, passes, and valleys on either side deserve their own time.